Thursday, 7 June 2007
Překrásný Praha
Lubos and I caught the overnight train from Zilina to Prague the other day. We had our own first class cabin with oversized seats that reclined into beds and a massive window to appreciate the passing scenery. My only gripe was with the dumb-fuck Conductor. After every scheduled stop (approximately 15) she would appear at our cabin (Ahoj!) to wake us and inspect and re-inspect our tickets!
Anyway, there is something amazing about rail travel. We hung out the window with the wind blowing in our faces. The train curved around mountains, through villages, over bridges, along lakes and across fields. At day break the train passed the outer villages of Prague and we watched the villagers prepare for the day ahead.
We arrived in Prague at 6:30am. Hlavní Nádraž, the oldest and busiest rail staion was already bustling. It never ceases to astound me how one of the main arrival points into Prague is full of drug dealers, the homeless, drunkards and drug addicts. I'm not sure if hookers sell their wares at Hlavní Nádraž because most Czech girls look like cheap whores so its hard to differentiate. However, in plain view of the public and the POLICE, deals are brokered on the main concourse and then buyers go down to the lockers to smoke or inject their goodies. On a previous trip to Prague, I sat at a cafe to wait for a train. The couple at the table next to me free-based their crystal meth without any inhibitions. I felt like I was sitting within the pages of 'Kinder Vom Bahnhof Zu', the book which later became the film Christiana F.
Once outside the station we made our way through the drunks and homeless and then into the streets of Prague... God I love this city! We had breakfast at Joseva, the Jewish quarter of Prague. It was in Joseva that I discovered the writings of Franz Kafka. There is a cafe where Kafka himself would sit and write, the cafe has been preserved to its originality and is worth a visit.
After plenty of karva, we then went and sat on a park bench that overlooked the River Vltava, Charles Bridge and Prague Castle. The tyrant George Bush was arriving in Prague later that day so we watched as Greenpeace assembled their boat with anti-war placards.
We then soaked up the atmosphere at Wenceslas Square over a sausage and mustard lunch at one of the pavement carts, not disimilar to Harry's Cafe de Wheels.
We wandered the streets of the old town, Stare Mesto and in particular, the Staromestske Namesti (old town square). With it's collection of Romanesque, Baroque and Gothic style buildings, the Astronomical Clock and the stunning St. Nicholas Church, Staromestske Namesti is easily the most resplendent square in Europe.
After more karva, I then accompanied Lubos to the airport (and saw the United States of America Air Force One arrive). He boarded his flight to England and I went to Sarka Park for an hour ot two and then made my way back to Zilina by train.
Monday, 4 June 2007
Red Army Cemetery Zilina.
As a child Lubos' whole school would traipse up a mountain to pay homage to the Red Army soldiers. In true Bolshevist style, the school would be led into song praising the Communist liberators and Communism. The only problem, apart from not giving a toss about Communism, he couldn't remember exactly where the cemetery was....... until we stumbled accross it this afternoon.
It's situated on top of a hill that looks over the Habitations. I love Socialist architecture, the dramatic parade monumentalism, uniformity, balance, patriotic art decoration and traditional sickle and hammer motifs. Dare I say it, I even adore Nazi architecture.
We are off to the Czech Republic on an overnight train and arrive in Prague tomorrow morning.... the same day as George Bush Jnr - aaaarrrggghhh!
Saturday, 2 June 2007
Aunt Bozena of Budatin.
The freakiest thing happened today. Lubos and I went for a bike ride to Budatin village in Zilina. It's the village where his paternal side of the family live. Lubos has never really talked about this side of his family except that his Dad walked out on the family after pumping a slut full of DNA and getting her pregnant.
We shinnied up the mountain past the little alpine style houses stopping at the house where his grandparents lived. By Slovakian standards, it is quite nice. Perched precariously on a mountainside it looks across a valley, motorway and rail track towards Budatin Castle. Across the road is Budatin Cemetery where Lubos' grandparents are buried.
Being a Saturday, the cemetery was packed with widows, sweeping, pruning, polishing and preening loved one's graves. After locating a cemetery attendant (this place was busier than a High Street) she directed us to where his grandparents are buried. It was at their grave that Lubos told me the story of Aunt Bozena.....
Bozena lived in the roof of the grandparents house. She received severe and regular beatings for being too 'slow'. Everyone described her as being a sandwich short of a picnic. Anyway, the tragic story gets even more odious. About 12 years ago she was gang-raped by gypsies and consequently fell pregnant. By the time the family realised she was pregnant (Bozena was too docile to notice), I'm assuming it was too late to abort... or being the 'virtuous' Catholics they were, perhaps an abortion was out of the question?! Bozena gave birth to a boy. Being a dark-skinned gypo and born out of wedlock the child brought intense shame to the family and was palmed off to God knows where. Aunt Bozena's mental health worsened, perhaps it was post-natal depression or the trauma of being raped and then giving birth to the resulting child... who knows. The lady at the local cukraren (patisserie) explained that Bozena's breast milk went bad and travelled to her head, whatever the reason, Bozena never recovered.
Still reeling from Bozena's story we decided to ride further up the mountain. It began to rain and cloud started to cloak the mountain so we turned for home. As we rounded the corner I saw a woman approaching in a tightly fastened blue trench coat, wellington boots carrying a sickle and bucket. As we rode closer Lubos looked at me in shock - it was Aunt Bozena! I urged him to go back and say 'Hi'. After hearing her story, I felt for her and thought she would be happy to see her long lost nephew - WRONG!
As he said 'Hi' and introduced himself Bozena became distressed and dodged Lubos like a petrified feral animal. She scampered into the forest from where she came. She didn't utter a word, the terror in her eyes, however spoke volumes.
In disbelief we rode to the local cukraren for a drink and to make further enquiries about Aunt Bozena. The lady explained that because she gave birth to a gypsy child, Bozena's breast milk was tainted and sent her crazy (Slovaks love their fishwives tales). She explained that Bozena lives alone in the house she was raised in and is only visited occasionaly by her sisters. She lives like an animal and doesn't communicate with anyone!
There's Hope for America Yet!
Presidential candidate, Barack Obama, just released the the following statement on his official website:
"Pride Month is a reminder that while we have come a long way since the Stonewall riots in 1969, we still have a lot of work to do."
"Too often, the issue of LGBT rights is exploited by those seeking to divide us. But at its core, this issue is about who we are as Americans. It's about whether this nation is going to live up to its founding promise of equality by treating all its citizens with dignity and respect."
"It's time to turn the page on the bitterness and bigotry that fill so much of today's LGBT rights debate. The rights of all Americans should be protected -- whether it's at work or anyplace else. "Don't Ask, Don't Tell" needs to be repealed because patriotism and a sense of duty should be the key tests for military service, not sexual orientation. Civil unions should give gay couples full rights. And those who commit hate crimes should be punished no matter whether those crimes are committed on account of race, religion, gender identity, or sexual orientation."
"This Pride Month, let's make our founding promise of equality a reality for every American."
I really hope Obama is the first of a new generation in world leaders. Take note Howard, Bush and Blair/Brown, your times up.... hopefully!
Friday, 1 June 2007
A Pinch and a Punch for the First Day of the Month!
Today we had a party for Enrique's niece, Lucka. It was interesting to see the difference between my nieces' parties and Enriques niece.
The last party my niece had was a weekend affair on a private island off the coast of Jakarta. It was complete with staff and a chartered yacht for her and all her friends.... she is nine! She received copius amounts of gifts, most of which were discarded (not worthy enough) after 5 minutes. One friend actually gave her a top-end mobile worth more than I can afford, my niece lost the phone after a couple of weeks.
For Enrique's niece we all crammed into his Mother's apartment. She received one gift from everyone, a Barbie scooter, and she loved it! The children then went outside and played on the scooter and on the swing set. We then had lunch and cake, followed by the anecdotes of a drunk neighbour.
Today highlighted how fruitless the pursuit is for material possessions...... who am I kidding, I stiil want that dries van noten suit ; )
Invites to our Civil Partnership!
We finally picked up the invites for our civil partnership ceremony! We decided to get the invites done in Slovakia to save a bit of dough. What a palaver! After scouring the streets of Zilina we found a printing company that did wedding invites. We then had the awkward situation of explaining to the provincial staff that it was two men getting married! Thank Buddha for Enrique's friend Alena who had the chutzpah to tell the staff 'to just get on with it!'.
Anyway, we selected an invite from a bunch of kitsch designs on offer. After three days of corrections (typos) we finally have our invites. And in true Stephen and Lubos style, they are being sent out two weeks before the actual date. If the Slovak Post operates anything like the printing company, the invites might arrive to their intended addressees before the end of the year.... thats if they arrive at all!
Sorry about the poor quality picture, I still think the invites are cute though!
Labels:
chutzpah,
civil ceremony,
invites,
kitsch,
zilina
Tuesday, 29 May 2007
Greetings from Slovakia.
I've been in Slovakia now about 24 hours and it's yet to make an impression on me. The communist past is evident in the sturdy public architecture and the nondescript highrise housing. Slovakia seems like the forgotten relative of eastern europe. The Czech Republic sparkles for the world whereas Slovakia seems to be in a state of disrepair void of any tourist.
The one thing I have noticed however, is the strong sense of community. In the large housing districts, neighbours congregate to gossip and children play (like they used to before Xbox's, playstations and internet porn).
I have met my partners family which has been very special. They don't speak English and I don't speak Slovak, so we have had to rely on Enrique as translator.
Stay posted, I will do a heap more exploring and I'm sure I will love this place.
Bye for now.
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